Woven interlining fabric and process of making same.



G. S. 00X. WOVEN INTERLINING FABRIC AND PROCESS 01" MAKIN APPLIUATION FILED SEPT.17, 1913.

Patented Mar. 24, 1914.

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Gem- 7630074 5,6. 7& v WXYW COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH CO.,WASHINGTON, D. c.

G. s. 002;. WOVEN INTERLINING FABRIC AND PROCESS OF MAKING SAME.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 17, 1913.

Patented Mar. 24,1914.

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FIG.

v I/VVEIVTOR eorye ,Sf COX By flaw ITTOR/VEY COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH CO" WASHINGTON, D. c

GEORGE S. COX, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

WOVEN INTERLINING FABRIC AND PROCESS OF MAKING SAME.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Mar. 24, 1914.

Application filed September 17, 1913. Serial N 0. 790,157.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GE RGE S. Cox, a citizen of the United States, residing at Philadelphia, county of Philadelphla, and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Woven Interlining Fabric and Processes of Making Same, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to woven interlining fabricsthat is, fabrics which, among other uses, are cut to form stiffening pieces adapted to be interposed between the cloth and lining at the lower edge of a dress. Such fabrics are usually woven with a weft composed entirely of horsehair, but serviceable substitutes are sometimes used, among whlch may be mentioned the fabric set forth in the patent issued to me September 18, 1904, No. 7 69,7 90, which consists of the usual Warp and a weft having, in each shed of warp, a pick of material, such as linen or cotton, of less stiffness and of greater thickness than the horsehair. This particular fabric has certain advantages over the fabric composed of a weft of solid horsehair. F or example, the horsehair cannot so readily be pulled out. But the greatest advantage is the rapidity with which it can be woven, compared to the ordinary fabric with the solid horsehair weft, as fully explained in my said patent. This substitute fabric is eminently satisfactory, but heretofore its manufacture has in volved the adaptation of the shuttle usually employed in pulling through the strands of hair to the purpose of pulling through the yarn as well, plus means for cutting off the yarn after the insertion of each pick of yarn. In Letters Patent No. 795,249, No. 795,250, No. 795,251, No. 795,253, and No. 795,255,

issued to me July 18, 1905, and No. 884,000,

issued to me October 28, 1906, I have set forth looms adapted to the manufacture of this particular cloth. In these looms the usual nipper for pulling the picks of hair through the warp shed as employed, that is, a nipper having a pair of jaws at one or both ends which grasp simultaneously a pick of hair and a pick of yarn, the pick of yarn being out OK by a special shears immediately after the insertion of the picks. Thus, each pick of yarn is, in the fabric, like each pick of horsehair, a separate and independent pick. The cutting 01f of the yarn to formseparate picks is objectionable, because the fabric, not being bound in any way along the edges, is not firmly held together.

The object of my invention is to so improve the specific fabric shown in Patent No. 769,790,, that, while it will possess the advantages and characteristics of such fabrics, it will be capable of beingwoven on the ordinary loom without the provision of an independently acting shuttle for the yarn and with only such minor modifications in the regular shuttle as will involve no change in its action upon the horsehair and no complications in its instruction or operation; second, a fabric that will be superior to said substitute fabric in that the picks of yarn.

in the finished cloth will not be separate and independent but be formed of a continuous length of yarn; third, a fabric which will even more effectively tend to hold the horsehair in place; and fourth, a fabric in which the relative total weights of hair and weft yarn may be varied by the manufacturer within wider limits than is possible with the specific fabric shown in said patent.

In the ordinary haircloth loom, the shuttle for inserting the picks of hair comprises a nipper or nipper stick extending transversely of the loom and having at one end a pair of jaws constituting the nipper proper. The nipper stick is reciprocated back and forth within the Warp sheds, the

jaws, at the end of the forward movement. of the nipper stick, grasping one end of a strand of hair-that has been previously selected by a selector, and on the return movement of the nipper stick, drawing the strand of hair through the shed. In making the preferred form of my improved fabric I cause the yarn to be threaded on the nipper stick in such manner that it extends longitudinally thereof and is capable of moving therewith and so that a loop of yarn, forming a double pick, may be carried throughthe shed in the advance movement of the nipper while in the return movement of the nipper stick a pick of hair is inserted. I have devised appropriate looping mechanism for engaging the loop of yarn at the completion of the forward movement of the nipper stick, and holding it so as to re tain the yarn in position during the return movement of the nipper stick, thus enabling two picks of yarn, integrally united at one edge of the fabric, to be inserted in the same shed of warp. The operation is such that,

on the return movement of the nipper stick, the hair, as above stated, is inserted between the two picks of yarn. After the weft is so inserted, the shed is changed and the operation'proceeds as before. There is thus formed a fabric consisting of a warp of flexible material and a weft having, in each shed of warp, a pick of horsehair and, on opposite sides thereof, two picks of yarn integrally united, at one edge of the fabric, to each other and each, at the other edge of the fabric, integrally united to a pick of yarn in thenearest adjacent shed.

From the above general description, it will be understood that this fabric has the advan tage of being capable of being woven on the ordinary haircloth loom, with simple but important additions thereto that do not, however, change in the slightest degree the operation of the loom so far as concerns the insertion of the hair.

The picks of yarn are made up of one continuous length of yarn as distinguished from separate and independent picks formed by shearing the yarn to enable fresh ends to be grasped by the nipper. The fabric is therefore bound in along both edges by the yarn. The horsehair, thus held between two picks of yarn, will be more effectually prevented from slipping out. And, finally, by varying the thickness of the yarn, the relative weights of yarn and hair may be varied within wide limits, as two relatively thin pieces of yarn may take the place of the single relatively thick pick of yarn contained in the specific fabric disclosed in said Patent No. 769,790, while if the proportion of yarn is desired to be increased, two relatively thick pieces of yarn may be employed without increasing the thickness of the fabric beyond that of the specific fabric shown in said patent.

It will be understood that the above described method of making my improved interlining fabric may be carried out on a hand-operated loom; but as a hand-operation loom would not be commercially practicable, I have herein described a loom adapted to carry out the method automatically; the same, however, forming no part of the present invention, but constituting the subject matter of a separate application, filed of even date herewith, Serial No 790,158.

In the drawings: Figure 1 is an enlarged plan view of a preferred form of my improved interlining fabric; Fig. 2 is a section through the weft on the line of the warp; Fig. 3 is a side view, partly in section, of a portion of a loom adapted to weave the fabric of Figs. 1 and 2; Fig. a is a plan View of the nipper stick of Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is a side view of said nipper stick.

Referring first to Figs. 1 and 2: 0 is the cotton warp; a is the horsehair weft; Z) is the yarn weft, there being two picks of yarn b in each shed of warp lying on opposite sides of a pick of hair, the two yarn picks being integrally united to each other at one edge of the fabric and, at the other end of the fabric, being integrally united to the yarn in the two next adjacent sheds.

Referring to Figs. 3, 4 and 5: 10 is the loom frame. 11 is the lay pivoted in bearings in the loom frame. 13 is a driving shaft, operating the lay 11 by means of a crank 14: and a link 15. 16 is the reed. 17 is the usual shuttle or nipper stick, the same being reciprocated across the lay through the warp sheds by any usual mechanism, as, for example, by the means shown in Figs. 12 and 13 of Patent No. 1,026,430 issued to me May 14, 1912. The nipper stick 17 is provided, at different points along its top surface, with eyes 18, through which is threaded part of a continuous length of yarn b, which extends from a cop not shown.

Pivoted on the loom frame, on the same axis as that on which the lay is pivoted, is a lever 20. One end of a lever 21 is pivot-ally mounted in a slot 22 in the arm 20. The other end of the lever 21 carries a looping finger 23. Pivoted between its ends on the loom frame is lever 24-, one end of which has a slot and pin connection with the lower end of a link 25. The upper end of the link 25 is pivotally connected with the middle part of the lever 21. A spring 26 connects the lower end of the link 25 with the loom frame and tends to draw down the link 25. The other end of the lever 25 carries a roller 27 which engages a cam 28 on the shaft 13. As the nipper stick moves to the right (Fig. 4t) it carries with it double length of yarn, one length being drawn through the eyes 18 of the nipper stick in the latters movement. As the nipper stick completes its movement to the right, the cam 28 has turned so that the roller 27 rides off the high point thereof. This permits the spring 26 to draw down the link 25 and thus operates the lever 21 to depress the looping finger 23 and cause it to extend within the loop formed by the yarn 111st beyond the edge of the fabric. At about the same time, the jaws of the nipper are opened in the usual way, not shown, and then closed upon the end of a pick of hair which has been presented to the nipper by the usual selector, not shown. As the nipper stick moves to the left (Fig. 1), the nipper carries through the warp shed a pick of hair, laying it between the two picks of yarn, the yarn slipping through the eyes 18 and not therefore having imparted to it the movement of the nipper. After the nipper passes beyond the warp shed, the shed is changed and the operation above described is repeated. The cam 28 is so shaped that at an appropriate time the roller rides upon the high face of the cam, thereby withdrawing the looper finger 23 from its operative position. Thus there is inserted, in each shed, as a result of a single reciprocation of the nipper stick, a single pick of hair and two picks of yarn integrally united with each other at one end of the fabric, and at the other end of the fabric integrally united with the yarn in the two adjacent sheds.

Having now fully described my invention,

what I claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent is:

l. The process of weaving interlining fabric, which consists in forming a shed of warp, drawing through the shed in one'direction a loop forming part of a continuous length of yarn to form two picks of yarn in the shed, drawing through the same shed in the other direction, a separate pick of horsehair, changing the shed, and inserting two picks of yarn forming another part of said continuous length of yarn and another separate pick of horsehair as before, and so on, thereby forming an interlining fabric composed of a warp having in each shed a sepa rate pick of horsehair and two picks of yarn weft integrally united at one edge of the fabric with each other and integrally united at the other edge of the fabric with the picks of yarn weft in the two adjacent warp sheds.

2. The process of weaving interlining fabric which consists in forming a shed of warp, drawing through the shed in one direction a loop forming part of a continuous length of yarn to form two picks of yarn inthe shed, drawing through the same shed in the other direction a separate pick of horse hair and laying it between the two picks of yarn,

changing the shed and inserting two picks of yarn forming another part of said continuous length of yarn and another separate pick of horsehair as before, and so on, thereby forming an interlining fabric in which, in each shed of warp, two picks of yarn, extending along opposite sides of a pick of horsehair, are each, at one edge of the fabric, integrally united to the other and, at the other edge of the fabric, to a pick of yarn in the nearest adjacent shed.

3. The process of weaving fabric, which consists in forming a shed ofwarp and drawing through the shed in one direction a loop forming part of a continuous length of yarn to form two picks of yarn in the shed, changing the shed, and inserting in the same direction another loop forming another part of the same continuous length of yarn, and so on, thereby forming a fabric composed of a warp having in each shed two picks of weft integrally united at one edge of the fabric with each other and integrally united at the other edge of the fabric with the picks of yarn weft in the two adjacent warp sheds.

4. An interlining fabric consisting of a warp of flexible material and a weft, in each shed of warp, composed of a separate and independent pick of horsehair and a plurality of picks of material of less stiffness than the horsehair integrally united to each other and to one pick of said material in each of the two adjacent sheds of warp.

5. An interlining fabric composed of a warp of flexible material and a weft, in each shed of warp, composed of a separate and independent pick of horsehair and a plurality of picks of material of less stiffness than the horsehair and integrally united to other picks of said material in other sheds of warp.

6. An interlining fabric composed of a warp of flexible material and a weft composed of separate and independent picks of horsehair and a material of less stiffness than the horsehair divided into integrally united picks greater in number than the number of sheds of warp.

7. An interlining fabric consisting of a warp of flexible material and a weft, in each shed of warp, composed of a separate and independent pick of horsehair and two picks of material of less stilfnessthan the horsehair integrally united to each other and to one pick of said material in each of the two adjacent sheds of warp.

8. An interlining fabric consisting of a warp of flexible material and a weft composed of separate and independent picks of horsehair and material of less stiffness than the horsehair, there being, in each shed of warp, two picks of said material integrally united to each other and to one pick of said material in each of the two adjacent sheds of warp.

9. An interlining fabric consisting of a warp of flexible material and a weft composed of a pick of horsehair and two picks of yarn in each shed of warp, said picks of yarn being integrally united to each other at one edge of the fabric and integrally united to the yarn in the two adjacent sheds at the other edge of the fabric.

10. An interlining fabric consisting of a warp of flexible material, and a weft, in each shed of warp, composed of a pick of horsehair and, on opposite sides thereof, two picks of yarn integrally united, at one edge of the fabric, to each other and each, at the other edge of the fabric, integrally united to a pick of yarn inthe nearest adjacent shed.

In testimony of which invention, I have hereunto set my hand, at Philadelphia, on this 16th day of September, 1913.

GEORGE S. COX.

Witnesses:

M. M. HAMILTON, E. E. WALL.

copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by Washington, 11.0.

addressing the Commissioner of Patents, 

